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KMID : 0604520060320040209
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
2006 Volume.32 No. 4 p.209 ~ p.217
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Development and Prospect of Emulsion Technology in Cosmetics
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Kyung Ki-Yeol
Lee Chun-Koo
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Abstract
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Emulsion is a dispersion system among liquids which are not miscible together. There are numerous cosmetic raw materials which have different physicochemical properties. Therefore, emulsion technology is very useful in cosmetics. With the development of emulsifier, several emulsification technologies have been developed. Since HLB method by Griffin in 1950’’s, PIT method, gel method, and D-phase methods, etc, have been developed. Recently, the application of natural emulsifier and polymeric emulsifier increases in cosmetics in order to achieve enhanced safety and biocompatibility. Besides nano-emulsion, multiple-emulsion, liquid crystal emulsion, and Pickering emulsion have been developed and applied as means of differentiating appearance and texture of products and achieving enhanced delivery of active ingredients. Meanwhile, the application studies of nano-dispersed structural system such as liposome or cubosome are on progress. Liposome is a bi- or multi-lamella layer dispersion system composed of amhiphilic molecules - phospholipids which are main components of plasma membrane. Cubosome also is a nano-sized dispersion system composed of a specific molecule like glyceryl monoloeate derived from natural products. And it has a cubic bicontinuous structure in water due to its unique molecular structure. Incorporating compounds (active materials) into such nano-particles can increase biocompatibility and delivery efficiency of target compounds. Manufacturing process and application of cosmetic emulsions and nano-particles are briefly introduced in this paper.
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KEYWORD
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cosmetic emulsion, emulsification method, liposome, cubosome
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